How to make a Lipo quick change battery for the TM Sopmod M4 with recoil, out of a standard TM 8.4v 1300mah battery.
1. Taking apart the standard TM battery:
Take your Standard 8.4v Tm quick change battery, underneath there is 6 holes, top middle and bottom, some maybe under the stick that’s on the battery. Using a small Philips screw driver, undo all 6 screws, and using a knife cut down the edge of the sticker to separate the two half’s of the battery. Now you should be able to tip out the contents of the battery.

2. Making the quick change lipo battery:
Now you should prepare the new battery, take the old insides of the TM battery and look at the top section, it’s a flat metal bar, which loops over from one side of the battery too the other and in the middle is the quick change connector. This is what we need to remove and fit to our new lipo battery. Using a soldering iron where the wires join the metal just touch the soldering iron against it and the wire will drop off. Do this for both sides you will now have your quick change connector separated. Now in true blue peter style, discard the old contents of the battery out the way, keeping the quick change connector. Take either the hotpower 7.2v 3000mah lipo or the hotpower 11.1v 1600mah lipo, both crane stock batteries, available at ehobbyasia, ebay and other stores. You’ll need to slide the crane stock lipo into the sopmod stock. Notice how it is a perfect fit, and also how you can’t fit the battery the wrong way round. Also notice the length of the wires, how they stick out quite far from the top if you cut the main lipo connector off, and fit the metal quick change, you’ll notice there will be too much slack wire for it to be a snug fit. Line up the quick change in the quick change slot on the sopmod stock, while the lipos in the stock and mark on the wire the proper amount you will need to cut. This will leave the wires pretty short don’t worry it needs to be. Now using your soldering iron, solder the lipo wires to the quick change connector. Please make a note at this point about polarity, while the lipos in the stock fitted correctly you should mark it and make a note of what side is positive and what side is negative save you getting it wrong. When you solder the wires to the lipo use some heat shrink to cover the new soldier contacts. This should now give you a lipo battery with a quick change connector, give it a charge up and test it in your sopmod. Please note you should do anything to the little white balance “tab” that comes off the lipo you need that to balance your lipo, when fitting the stock cap, use your common sense balance the tab on top of the connection and the stock cap will click in place.
3. Adding an outer case to the lipo:
This is good and should now be working but as you can see its only as solid as your solder contacts are. So we now need to mod the left over casing to give it some extra protect and make it a bit more robust. Take the battery and drop it in the stock again, notice how much spare room you have in the stock once the batteries fully in, now drop the empty sopmod case in there and mark on the case where the top of the lipo battery was, we are basically going to chop the top section of the sopmod case and fit it over the lipo quick change connector. This if you get it as close to the lipo as you can will give it lots of support with very little movement. Once you have marked the case where to cut, take a hacksaw or dremel and cut the marked section of the casing off. Now try and fit the cut section of the casing over the quick change connector on the lipo, notice how it fits but catches in a few places. Take a dremel or file or knife and cut away the inside parts of the connector. There’s divides and parts that just aren’t needed. Remember to keep the screw holes intact as the screw will hold it all together. Keep removing material until the wires and metal part fit. You will have to cut a tiny notch in the top to fit the lipo balance tab.
Hopefully now your battery is coming together like this one pictured below as the final result. As you can see take your time and the end result will be as good as you make it.
These can be made to order on request by emailing info@eagle6.co.uk and only cost £60 each, which costs less than 2x std sopmod batterys which you would need for days play. can be made in either 7.4v 3000mah or 11.1v 1600mah











#1 by Darren Roberts on January 6, 2010 - 14:12
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Hi I need a 7.4 3000mah lipo quickchange for my sopmod.
can you help me out?
#2 by Niek on January 24, 2010 - 00:57
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First image on this page, if you click on it, links to http://richardyoung.adsl24.co.uk/lipobatterymodpics/batterymod1l.jpg, which gives an error. You have to remove the ‘l’ at the end, then it works. The correct name is batterymod1.jpg.
#3 by Richard on January 24, 2010 - 05:28
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cheers my bad, all fixed.
#4 by Niek on January 25, 2010 - 12:08
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Great! Nice tutorial!
#5 by Richard on January 25, 2010 - 17:30
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thanks, ill be making more soon so i will, do a more detialed step by step when i do, when i did it the first time it was more about finding a way and getting it done!
#6 by Niek on January 28, 2010 - 23:26
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My sopmod arrived today! Rather than destroying a perfectly (well, at least a very) fine TM battery to build this, would it be possible to use the little plastic dummy battery thing that’s in the battery compartment when you first open it?
#7 by Richard on January 29, 2010 - 08:55
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i originally thought that, you possibly could if you could bend a bit of metal to fit perect in the connector on the gun.. if you can figure out a way i can stop sacrificing sopmod batterys to the gods..
#8 by Niek on January 29, 2010 - 23:37
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Ok, I started working on it. Check out the pictures on http://www.niek.be/fotoalbum/?shashin_album_key=21
So far I don’t even have the LiPo. I’ve ordered the Hot Power 7.4V so now I need to wait for it to arrive before I can finish it.
When it’s finished, I’ll write a full how-to. Until then the captions of the photos will give some explanation.
#9 by Richard on January 30, 2010 - 16:48
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nice work! i like it! its looking good i might actually be able to get the caps a bit cheaper than the batterys as well.
If you do a full how-to ill get it up next to this one with your name on it.
#10 by Richard on February 5, 2010 - 23:00
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i was not sure whether time, effort wise this would be worth it, but i had a go tonight, and shaped some metal peices to fit nicely in the little gaps and poke through the top. ill call that stage 1 for tonight, ive ordered some extra lipos to work on, ill try and build one into a lipo, ill drill out the cap i think as much as possible, then afterwards use a combination of glue and black silcon to fill it all in place i think. If this works out i should be able to reduce the battery costs by about 25 – 30 quid! granted its a little more time consuming hehe
#11 by Niek on March 15, 2010 - 00:41
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Hi,
Work has stopped here for the moment, as my sopmod is in for repair. After my first skirm with it, the bolt catch got stuck and now it won’t shoot anymore. I have warranty, but the shop is taking forever to even start working on it (they have it already for a month now…).
I’ll come back here once my work has progressed. Glad you’re trying to do it as well!
#12 by Richard on March 17, 2010 - 08:11
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http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac98/Richyyoung/16032010280.jpg
going good on the battery, im calling it mk3 lipo lol as its the 3rd way ive made the same thing lol
going good but i had to take the lipo apart down to its individual cells, then send the wires up through the end connector after removing the excess plastic from it..
worked alright the hardest part was wiring the wires on to the metal connectors i shaped, they required alot of soldiering and keept melting the plastic connector i then had to sand back the connector to fit in tothe sopmod..
bit of a ball ache then theres the matter of making it fit into the charge adaptor thats will be the hard part..
if you get stuck with the repairs send it to me im not the quickest but i sure as hell can beat a month
lol
#13 by Niek on April 4, 2010 - 13:05
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I finally got to finish the thing. I must admit it didn’t quite turn out the way I wished. In order to route all the wires through, I decided to saw grooves in both sides. I forgot that these parts are exposed when the battery is in the gun…
Anyway, here are the pics: http://www.niek.be/fotoalbum/?shashin_album_key=21
The biggest problem however is that the damn battery won’t charge! I bought the one you use from eHobbyAsia, a Hot Power 7.4V 3000 mAh. Whenever I connect the charger and balancer (I use a Graupner) and start the charging program it says ‘contact break’. I don’t understand why! I used a multimeter to check every contact and when the battery is connected, the charger can even measure the individual cell voltages…
I did notice that there quite a big difference in voltage between the two cells, 3.8 vs 4.9, and I thing the normal voltage should be around 3.7. Could this be a faulty battery?
#14 by Richard on April 5, 2010 - 01:23
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hmm it can detect the voltage through the balance tab, but it will charge through the main contacts you have made, so i would double check the new contacts are touching the sopmod charging adaptor. when i made mine it took a while to make the metal contacts fit properly inside the adaptor and also in the gun. as for th unbalanced voltage, once you get it all connected run a charge cycle then run a balance cycle.
Looking good mate i like your idea of cutting the sides i didnt think of that.
heres mine
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac98/Richyyoung/16032010280.jpg
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac98/Richyyoung/Eagle6Mk3lipo1.jpg
mine i routed the wires through the inside of the block, and then filled it in with silcon sealant, i then glued the cells to the connector making it nice and solid and then painted it, kinda looks like the original batterys now!
#15 by Niek on April 8, 2010 - 23:26
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I’m thinking of starting all over again. A new battery is not a problem. I’m pretty sure the one I got from ebaybanned was faulty out of the box. The problem however is where to get a new plastic thingy… I might just end up doing it your way after all, sacrificing the original TM battery
#16 by Richard on April 9, 2010 - 09:22
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i accept all donations of those little spare end caps lol
thats the only way i can get them, also when ever a gun comes in for repair with one i steal it mwuahahahahaahaha players dont use them but each one equals a lipo hehe
yours should be fine just fill in the holes with black silcon sealant and then on the bottom glue the black connector to the top of the battery, making sure its in the right position to slide in and out.
#17 by Niek on October 10, 2010 - 22:51
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Hi,
Have you had any problems with your switch due to the higher current of the Lipo? Do you use a mosfet?
#18 by Richard on October 11, 2010 - 08:33
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I have found the some sops develop a little wear on one side of the switch. I had to sand it down a little and open up the contacts a little. In some cases i had to take apart the switch block and sand the plastic parts so the blade moved more freely..
I dont think this is entirely burning from arching it seems more like wear / distortion of the trigger block, due to the tight tollerances it gets stuck in fire mode when you pull the trigger. If you can try a stronger return spring!
Yeah perfect world we would fit a mosfet, but 7.4v isnt really that much when you consider more voltage is actually coming from a upgraded standard NIMH pack..
#19 by Niek on October 11, 2010 - 23:24
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Thanks for the advice. I was wondering where I should put it anyway. The only way I think it can be fitted is by front wiring the gun and put the battery in an ugly AN/PEQ box.
#20 by Richard on October 13, 2010 - 18:09
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you can by micro mosfets but the heat generated “could” be an issue on the larger guns using smaller fets.. could burn out the fet..