Cut off lever and timing tutorial
Forgive me if you old ready know someone of this stuff but we will go off the cut off lever first and its operation then on to how you can adjust it, once you understand how the cut off lever is operated and causes single shots you can now adjust it for all guns to your liking.

Picture of the cut of system

Notice in the photo how we have the cut off lever, this is on a pivot. Your thinking durrr common sense but what most don’t understand is how it actual causes the single effect, its less the gears and more the plastic of the trigger blade. Its shape is crucial often someone could have a broken trigger blade on the inside and be banging there head against the wall with a no single problem, the picture is taken from the inside i.e. underneath when you would normally view an open gearbox making it very good for visualising what’s really going on.

The trigger is pull pushing the blade into the contacts, this then causes the gears to spin, we are focusing on the sector gear, underneath you can see the gear lobe, this position is determined by the make and brand of gears BUT you can assume it will be “fairly” generic across brands in position and shape. As it comes round when the selector plate is in single mode, it pushes the cut off lever into the position in the picture. Notice the part of the cut off lever which the lobe is about to hit. This is where we point out “wear” hard gear metal on soft cut off lever metal wears it, you hear m14 users complaining the most about this. This part will get lower over time. Using this method you can remove the need to replace this part.

Let’s move past the pivot point as that obvious, the front of the cut off lever, notice how it’s a certain shape to fit into the plastic notch of the trigger blade.

Now watch the video for its full operation.

Did you notice how the lobe “pushed” the cut off lever down which inturn “lifted” the other end up. This lifts the trigger blade off the top of the metal trigger and as its on a spring it pings back.

when i say its adjustable its not like there’s a magical switch, by looking at that picture, imagine if the user fits all those parts into a NEW different brand gearbox, now imagine the mounting hole for the cut off lever is 1mm lower than the old position. How would you think that new position would affect the cut off lever? Id like to think your picturing the gear lobe is now further away. So in essence it’s like it’s really worn and can barely reach it. Also its now lower at the blade side. So it its pivoting less and pushing up less on the blade we now have a situation that just because the user has fit a different casing, he’s now getting delayed deactivation of the trigger blade, or more likely the cut off simply never pushes it up enough to deactivate.

We still have a set amount of pivot and lift though…. so we can work with that…

If it lifts it 2mm but it needs to lift it 4mm can we not add material to the top of the cut off lever. Thus making it start off higher. Now 2mm lift is all it needs as its 2mm higher to start off with. You cannot add material to the worn metal on metal areas, it will just wear again. But you can add it to the left hand side of the cut off lever where it simply pushes up on the trigger blade.

Also the trigger block its self is screwed into a set position. What if you sanded 2mm off the bottom of the whole trigger block and screwed it in 2mm lower. Or if you sanded the underside of the blade…

There’s 3 ways there you can adjust the timing of the cut off notice how they are for fixing problems, usually incompatible trigger blocks and gearbox casings, or gear combos and casing combos.

What happens when you get over run is the blade is in the trigger block for too long. It needs to be knocked out quicker. Its fine on a normal voltage setup but higher voltage is exposing the need for faster blade retraction…

Its doesn’t mater which method you use but you need to get the blade out of the trigger contacts quicker. Adding a small drop of araldite hard resin on top of the cut off lever part which pushes up against the trigger blade means it will now deactivate it quicker.. you’ll need to experiment with the amount. stronger or double return spring on the trigger blade, and also opening the blades slightly maybe. You need enough contact time and electricity for one rotation but fast enough to stop before the sec0ond rotate starts. Because the end of the first gears cycle activates the cut off lever, making it higher will only affect it when the cut off lever activates at the end of the cycle and now it deactivates it with only the slightest of tap from the gears…

I hope i explained it well enough but basically increasing the high of the cut off will knock the blade out before the second over run cycle starts, which out power the second cycle will never get past the first pickup tooth.

For the electronic fets the raptor will detect it for you the stealth has a dip switch which you can use the same adjustments to alter how fast its dip switch deactivates. Since the dip switch is activated by the cut off.